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Eelbrook, Fulham – Restaurant Review

Today I am proud to host a guest post from friend, partner in (foodie) crime and blogger extraordinaire F. of The Daily Out. She was so brave to accept what was pretty much a blind date on my behalf with a restaurant out of our usual East/Central London beat. Of course, I had thoroughly checked the credentials of the date- ok, the restaurant- before pitching it to a friend – and as it looked a very solid candidate, with a touch of Scandinavian sexyness to boot, off she went. Here’s the account of a night at Eelbrook, Fulham.

Nestled in the corner of Fulham’s Eel Brook Common, Eelbrook is a new all-day eatery by Head Chef Brett Barnes (ex Duckshop, ex Fäviken), specialising in British dishes with Provençal and Scandinavian influences featured on a menu of small plates.
A couple of weeks ago, I was invited to test-drive a tasting menu for this guest-post and the impressive CV of the kitchen lured me into venturing out of my East London comfort zone and covering the almost 1 hour journey – including the couple of times I forgot my stop or boarded the wrong train – to Fulham Broadway.

eelbrook fulham 1

Left: the Eelbrook dining room (photo: from Eelbrook website); right: Chef Brett Barnes and his beautofully presented creations (photo courtesy @TheDailyOut)

Eager with anticipation, I was hopeful to get a little taste of  Fäviken, the Swedish restaurant currently ranked #19 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, where Chef Brett has spent a few months  cooking. Now, I know that Fulham is not a desolate Scandinavian fjord full of raw ingredients to forage, but still…

We started the evening on Eelbrook Terrace, over looking the small park, enjoying the pleasantly mild evening, sipping cocktails of Perrier Jouet Champagne and elderflower liqueur Fiorente. So very West London.

When it was almost dark, and our glasses empty, we moved inside the minimalistic white scandi looking dining room, ready to kick off our 7 course tasting.

eelbrook fulham review

Left to right: brandade, eel and venison tartare (all photos courtesy of @TheDailyOut)

First up was the salt cod brandade served with seaweed bread – a delicate emulsion of salt cod, olive oil, potato and punchy garlic. The British seaweed bread – I am assuming  Fäviken influenced – was a little too subtle, I would have loved to taste a little more of it.

Followed by Lincolnshire smoked eel, a chunky and meaty deliciously smoked eel served on a soft potato pancake, topped with a watercress and horseradish crème fraiche, delicate enough to let the smokiness of the eel shine through each bite.

Our third starter was a juicy venison tartare – more Fäviken Yay! – seasoned with burnt shallot, juniper berry and a touch of lemon, served with Scanidinavian crisp rye bread. This was probably my favourite course – I am known to have a soft spot for tartare, carpaccio, oysters and scallops – serve me one these any day and you find a way straight to my food heart.
As expected, the venison was hand chopped, perfectly seasoned. I would have liked a little more crispy bread.

A wild Scottish salmon served with summer vegetables and pistou was next. Probably my least favourite course. I love salmon not fully cooked – read raw – so for me it was a touch overcooked – although I liked the crispy skin of the fish, perfectly combined with a soft and slightly garlicky pistou (a Provençal version of Italian pesto) thick minestrone.

eelbrook fulham mains

Left: plum soup dessert; right: partridge and salmon (all photos courtesy of @TheDailyOut)

The last of the mains was a beautifully presented whole partridge wrapped in Italian Guanciale, served on an addictive, creamy, sweet, rich bed of sweetcorn  – which was the highlight of the dish – topped with crisp roasted spelt.

Dessert was a fresh and light affair, a chilled plum soup, served with hazelnut ice cream, cobnuts and cherries, followed by Charolais goat’s cheese paired with pineapple chutney.

My verdict? I loved some of the dishes very much, loved the Scandinavian influence, the eel, the tartare, the creaminess of the partridge sweetcorn. I am not so keen on the Provençal influence, but I can see it could be widely popular. Definitely a good option for a lazy weekend lunch or brunch if you live locally.

And Chef Brett told me you can easily find a spot at Fäviken without months of wait, so that would probably go on my bucket list for the summer, with you Serena @Intothefworld.

Eelbrook on Urbanspoon

I was a guest of Eelbrook. Opinions strictly mine. 

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2 Comments

  1. Great post, the partridge looks particulary good although I would have to eat gingerly around the claws I think :)

    • Agree – the claws are slightly disquieting ;) but hey it was gooooood

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